1. Weave Types: The Blueprint of Strength and Comfort

The "weave" refers to how the cotton threads (yarns) are interlaced during the weaving process. Each weave offers a unique balance of properties.

• Gold Weave: A classic and highly durable weave. It was developed as a solution to the limitations of single weaves. Gold weave incorporates extra threads running in the weft (horizontal) direction, which are then "reinforced" with a third, lighter thread. This creates a fabric that is significantly stronger and more tear-resistant than a single weave, while remaining relatively lightweight and flexible. It strikes an excellent balance for practitioners of all levels.
• Pearl Weave: The modern standard for most high-quality Gis. Pearl weave is characterized by a distinctive small, dot-like pattern. Its key advantage is its superb strength-to-weight ratio. It weaves threads in a way that minimizes material without sacrificing integrity, resulting in a Gi that is exceptionally lightweight, breathable, and strong. This makes it the preferred choice for competitors who need to make weight and value mobility.
• Honeycomb Weave: A variation of the pearl weave, known for its even greater durability. As the name suggests, the pattern resembles a honeycomb. This structure creates more points where threads cross and interlock, leading to a denser, heavier, and incredibly rip-resistant fabric. Gis made with a honeycomb weave are often favored by those who prioritize maximum durability over lightweight comfort.
• Single Weave: The most basic and economical weave. It uses a simple, single-layer construction. While lightweight and breathable, it lacks the reinforced strength of other weaves and is more prone to tearing under stress. It is typically found in beginner Gis or those used for training in hot climates where airflow is a priority.
• Double Weave: The heavyweight champion of Gi fabrics. This weave uses two layers of fabric woven together, creating an extremely thick, stiff, and heavy material. While incredibly durable and difficult to grip, its lack of breathability and mobility makes it less popular in modern Jiu-Jitsu, though it is sometimes used in Judo.

2. Material and Blends

• 100% Cotton: The traditional and most common material. It is soft, breathable, and strong. Its main drawback is that it can shrink significantly if not cared for properly (e.g., air-dried).
• Cotton-Polyester Blends: Some modern Gis incorporate polyester into the fabric. Polyester is added to reduce shrinkage, increase wrinkle resistance, and sometimes to lower the cost. However, purists often prefer the natural feel and grip of 100% cotton.

1. Pattern Cutting and Design

A Gi is not a simple T-shirt. Its pattern is designed with mobility in mind. Key features include:

• Reinforced Stress Points: Areas like the armpits, knees, and the center of the back (the "skirt") are cut and designed to handle constant stress.
• Tapered Fit vs. Traditional Fit: Modern manufacturing allows for different cuts. A "tapered" fit is narrower in the arms and torso to prevent opponents from easily establishing grips, while a "traditional" fit offers a looser, more relaxed feel.

2. Stitching: The Unseen Strength

The type and density of stitching are crucial for longevity.

• Single Stitching: A single row of stitches. This is insufficient for a BJJ Gi and is a sign of low quality.
• Double/Triple Stitching: The industry standard for high-stress areas. Multiple parallel rows of stitching distribute tension and prevent seam failure. You will typically find triple stitching on the shoulders, sides, and pant seams.
• Reinforced Stitching (e.g., Rivets/Bar Tacks): At critical stress points like the crotch of the pants and the point where the lapel meets the collar, manufacturers often use bar tacking—a dense, zig-zag pattern of stitching—or metal rivets to create an almost indestructible anchor point.

3. The Collar (Lapel)

• Construction: The collar is typically made from multiple layers of the main Gi fabric or a specialized, denser foam or EVA (Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate) material, which is then folded and stitched into the Gi jacket.
• Rolling and Stitching: High-quality Gis feature a "rolled lapel," where the material is rolled before being stitched. This creates a round, durable profile that is more comfortable against the neck and harder for an opponent to grip firmly.

4. Final Touches: Preshrinking and Finishing

• Preshrinking (Sanforization): To combat the natural shrinkage of cotton, premium Gis undergo a sanforization process. The fabric is mechanically stretched and treated with moisture and heat before being cut, locking in the size and drastically reducing post-purchase shrinkage. A "pre-shrunk" Gi offers reliable sizing.
• Dyeing and Finishing: The fabric is dyed, with "bleached white" and "unbleached/off-white" being the most traditional colors. The final Gi is then inspected for any flaws before being packaged.